Finally a 4 star day and it would have been a 5 star day, but I didn't have any stand out, FANTASTIC rides. It was just a great day with a great friend and a lot of great waves.
For the past week, I've been having just okay surf sessions. Writing these session logs has helped raise my awareness about the ups and downs I have during any one particular surf session and ups and downs over a period of time. I've realized just how easily I am affected by the other surfers in the water--something I need to continue to look at and think about. I need to come to some equanimity about my fellow wave riders.
For me, being with Kris and having more consistent waves made all the difference. Kris and I have surfed many times together, but it was great to share the stoke with her because we were both catching so many waves and we had a little section of the ocean basically to ourselves. I felt unself-conscious for the first time in quite a while; I felt free to be myself. And that inner freedom translated into better surfing and a more joyful surfing experience.
The highlight of my surf experience was seeing a couple of dolphins up close. One dolphin was almost close enough to touch. It came up from the inside, instead of the outside, just as a larger set was coming in. I heard it blow and startled turned around and saw it within four feet of me! Then I saw it and a baby jump out of the water and swim past Kris. It is always amazing to get that close to the dolphins!
After our 3 hour surf session, we were famished, so we went to Mary's and chowed down on food. Brunch after surf is always amazing! Wow, I am so blessed to have such good friends and great surf!
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